Color printing Projet660


#1

Anyone experience with exporting and printing on 3DS Projet 660 colorprinter?
We are getting error-messages and there is a lot of stitching missing.
This is a screendump from 3D edit pro where we tried to fix it: enter link description here
We would appreciate your help with this.

www.3DeMe.com
Raymond


How to hollow out a model?
Praise for Skanect 1.8
#2

A good tutorial to use would be here: http://www.shapeways.com/tutorials/how_to_use_meshlab_and_netfabb to fix your 3d files before you put it in the 3DPrint Software. You can also meshmixer, with this tutorial: http://i.materialise.com/blog/entry/the-printable-3d-design-checklist-common-design-flaws-and-how-to-fix-them to fix most problems.

Note, these problems are inherent in 3d scanning, since basically its making a point cloud and then the software takes that point cloud and approximates it to a 3d shape. If you’re using itseez3d to scan, I couldn’t even get it to import into 3d print without processing it first, I’m curious how you got it to even load.

Hope this was helpful.


#3

Using ItSeez3D produces a good OBJ for importing into the 3D print and also the 3d Edit Pro software.
Only the stitches become visible in the print.

We know about these problems and know very well how to fix these.
What I am looking for is an easy solution. Sculpteo imports the files from the ItSeez3D without problems and all stitched very invisible.

The software guys should look at this. They are almost there with the solutions. Just stitch the whole thing together.

Meshmixer does not recognise the texture from ItSeez3D and is unusable for this purpose.


#4

i tried it in meshlab but getting also error messages.
Now I use 3dsMax for processing,…scale, baking texture etc etc. Work’s perfect!

The only thing is, if you want low print cost’s (and that’s when it gets ugly) you have to make a shell of your mesh.
About Min.4mm so its strong enough.
Applying modifiers won’t work, its gonna intersect the tri-mesh.
So in the end it all comes down to old-school modeling skills.

Grtz
VJ


#5

I save both the ply and obj files from ItSeez3D. I take a bust for example and import it into meshmixer. The color texture is trashed for some reason, but with meshmixer, set the print size to whatever you desire (102 mm for a 4" bust for example). Then hollow it out using the 3D print utility to a 4mm shell thickness. Then save the resulting file (.stl).

I’ll admit to a lot of confusion with meshmixer size parameters but that’s a whole other issue. If you set the size to 102 in meshmixer, then blender thinks it is 102 METERS, so you have to scale it again in blender. Crazy stuff.

I use blender to bake the vertex colors of the original ply and texture file to meshmixer’s stl file after aligning them as closely as possible. (you can eyball it, or use meshlab). It can be done and it comes out well. From blender, you can save a vrml file (.wrl) and zip it with the texture.png file that you create and send to printing service like shapeways.

Hope this helps.
B


#6

Here’s what I do with Itseez3d scans using free software because I’m cheap:

  1. Download as ply
  2. Open ply in Meshmixer
  3. Use the “make solid” tool and then do any model fix up
  4. Export that ply under a different name than the original
  5. Open the original (which still has color attached to it) and the new ply in Meshlab
  6. Use the “Texture to Vertex Color (between two meshes)” option under Filters -> Texture to transfer texture from the original to the new ply
  7. Now you have a ply file that has the color baked in. Delete the original mesh and export your new file out
  8. At this point, I import back into Meshmixer and rescale and add a base with a flat bottom for full body scans or I hollow it out for busts.
  9. Export as a .wrl and print (or in my case, send the file off to Sculpteo and wait a week and a half)

It might seem like a lot, but the whole process takes about half an hour or so and so far this has been the most efficient way for me to process a large number of scans at once. Hope this helps!


#7

Hi
Nice advice!
There is only one problem. All the scan data textures are in RGB and the printer prints CMYK. Should we turn the texture to CMYK before printing?
I noticed that if I print directly from it seez3d the shadows on a person face becomes almost red instead of dark tan color.

best regards


#8

The quick answer is yes, but I Shapeways does not recognize CMYK file formats, so you will have to use a CMYK color gamut conversion. Easy to do in Photoshop, but here is a link to Shapeways’ tips and I have quite a few other tips I have talked about on ‘All Things 3D’ (another episode tomorrow morning at 9:30 a.m. PST)