who needs a 3d printable bracket for iPadPro 12.9 ?

Hi all,

I own the iPadPro 12.9 and at work (I teach industrial design / interior design) the sticky tape bracket is not going to work well.

If people want I could easily model a strengthened sensor holder making use of the part the sensor is screwed onto.


Are you still thinking about a better mount for an iPad Pro 12.9”. I’m interested. Let me know if I can help.
Aloha, Wayne Goo, AIA


I need a 3d printable bracket for ipad pro 12.9 (also if it has the lens attachment opening). Thanks

Hey - that would be great if it’s no trouble!

You can count me among them. I have some carbon fiber filament that is aching to be used on something… structural. :sunglasses: I was actually considering giving it a go myself as I can’t believe sticky tape is the only option. If you do jump into it I am happy to test print/prototype if you don’t want to burn through all the trial and error filament alone. :smiley:

Anybody come up with something? Just got my Mark II and was also disappointed with the tape solution.

I can 3D model The file

All you need is to 3D print it

Btw how is the March ii?

@cekuhnen that would be awesome if you did, and as mentioned I would be happy to test print any prototypes if you like! Looking at the mounting requirements I am unsure why they designed the bracket for the 12.9 so differently. The camera positioning in relation to the volume buttons and the pencil mag strip is a bit unfortunate and could require some creative thinking, but worst case the pencil spot does not necessarily need to be maintained for a slip on bracket. I was going to do a photogrammetry scan of my Pro and see if I could model something basic, but I am not a designer, and muddling through a CAD design for something that requires precision didn’t sound like a very promising endeavor. :slight_smile:

To answer your question, the Mark II is $399 USD at the base option, which includes a bracket. If you have one of the older sensors they are offering a trade-in discount as well, though I might suggest against that if you have production needs as the Mk II is still stabilizing it seems.

@cekuhnen @EventHorizon Did you guys come up with a better bracket for the 12.9? I have one and the sticker solution is… suboptimal. With the volume buttons being so close to the camera, what if you designed the bracket to “grab” the iPad on three edges and just have the two side “fingers” be low enough that they’re under the top button and the top finger be just about where the pencil sits?

Yes I prototyped a 3D printed design by the problem of alignment remains.

I am personally not very happy with the official solution but currently it seems to be the most accurate when your scan is also supposed to have matching textures.

Yeah, the interesting thing is that the volume buttons are in the same place as on the iPad Air 2 in relation to the camera, there is definitely enough meat there on the corner for it to support the bracket, so I am unsure why the sticker solution at all unless there were problems with flex in the materials that are used in all of the brackets. I think I am going to try and replicate the Air design sized for the 12.9 and print it with my carbon fiber filament - if that does not give the rigidity needed I don’t know what would.I saw some reference design templates released by Occipital but they do not appear to be a replication of the current Mark II bracket. Oh the irony of using KScan with the KinectV2 to scan the bracket in order to mount the Mk II :stuck_out_tongue:

@cekuhnen @EventHorizon What if you made a bracket for the bracket? As in, you keep the existing bracket that the Sensor slides into and create a separate, “alignment” bracket that grabs onto the bracket we’re currently taping to our iPads (Or the reverse and have the current bracket slide into the new one) and the new one grabs onto the top and the sides of the iPad to hold that whole assembly in place?

Humorous that it’s a bracket for a bracket that holds the bracket we screwed onto the Sensor (which has a bracket on it, too).

lol @TheThomas, while that sounds like an interesting angle on it, I am pretty sure that would make things worse in just about every conceivable way. :slight_smile: The mounting bracket itself is the easy part, where it gets dodgy is in the extremely tight requirements for the positioning of the sensor in relation to the iDevice camera so that they can calibrate with eachother to avoid parallax effect etc. I am pretty sure I can crack it, but I then realized that before I can even test a design I have to buy another of the cables that is long enough to reach the sensor on the 12.9 - the cable that came with my iPad Air 2 kit is not nearly long enough. :frowning: I failed at finding just the cable for the right size without getting everything else in their store, but I was in a hurry and doing 3 things at once. I’ll be giving it another gander here in a bit so that I can get that step out of the way. :slight_smile: I will post here with any success, or any humorous/interesting failures and disasters along the way!

@EventHorizon Hmmm. Sometimes thinking outside the box leaves me out in the rain, now doesn’t it?

If it’s so very hard to get the alignment right, why does Occiptal tell me to just eyeball it when sticking the bracket on there? I’m not doubting you, it’s just that if the alignment is so precise (which I believe it must be), I find it very odd that Occiptal wants me to kinda guess when I stick it onto my 12.9” iPad. It’s almost as if they totally forgot that iPads get that big and they should have just said, “NOPE, sorry, can’t use the big ones!” Instead of the (literally) taped on solution…

Hah, yes you will see when you get your sensor fixed how sensitive it is - every time I put the bracket back on I recalibrate because it’s always at least a tad off just from the little bit of variance. Also we’re talking some potential forward shift when stacking (which really doesn’t happen no matter how badly you put it on with the normal bracket, worst you typically get is some side to side shift or maybe angular if a few beers in while scanning ;)) What I don’t get, though, is why it doesn’t just have a USB-C connector rather than that custom directional port. I can’t imagine that anything being done is going beyond either USB3.1 or Thunderbolt bandwidth capabilities. Then again I had to ask the same question about why my iPad 12.9 pro comes with a USB C port and my iPhone 11 pro max came with a lightning port… guffaw not only a lighting port, but a USB C power brick with a USB C to Lightning adapter cable to make it work on the new phone… Some pretty serious crossed wires there (literally)…

@EventHorizon But even if that custom port is faster than USB 3.1, the fact it’s going into USB 3.1 would make the faster speed irrelevant, right? Couldn’t you get an extension cable for the USB 3.1 end, rather than trying to find a longer cable with their port on one side?

In any event, I was talking to a medical instruments engineer today and he said that while they’ll 3D print things for quick tests on ergonomics and the like, you can’t get nearly as precise with 3D prints as you can with good old fashioned milling. If precise alignment of the bracket is so important, maybe we’re thinking about using the wrong technology for making a real 12.9” bracket. Then again, I don’t own a mill, so maybe 3D printing is the only feasible option?

3d printing is one of those areas where there are a LOT of factors involved in the quality of your results. Yes, if they set up a 3d printer out of the box and don’t have an expert on hand to operate/tune it then yes, your results will likely be all over the place. If your printer is well tuned (print surface is optimal for the material you are using, it is COMPLETELY level or properly tuned to compensate for irregularities, the environment is completely controlled for ambient temperature, humidity, draught/draft), the material being used is of high consistency/quality, and the Slicer settings are fine tuned as appropriate for the object being printed and is considering all of the factors above, then you can get EXTREMELY accurate prints. Printing down at a .1mm layer height for a full model is not exactly mill quality, but there are few things that it is not close enough for. You can also use some materials like carbon fiber, or even wood filaments which can then be sanded, milled, or otherwise fine tuned if necessary to get you to the desired finish and result. It’s definitely more than adequate for this particular job, though not all - since it IS basically a prototyping technology being used for production level output… but I’ve had great success with 3d printing in general for a lot of these things. I even 3d print a lot of custom additions for DJI Inspire series and Mavic 2 Pro drones that I operate, as often they don’t make what it is I am looking for at the time. :slight_smile: This one I am sure will work fine, I just need to find the time to get my CAD on with some trial and error!